[胡同里的叫賣聲] 我愛北京的小胡同

　　說起濟南胡同里的老字號,最多不過芙蓉街了。這條寬不過4米,長不過500米的街巷,連同交叉的芙蓉巷、金菊巷和平泉胡同等支巷在內(nèi),至全盛時商號多達140余家。什么裁縫鋪、首飾店、染坊、書館、照相館、樂器行、診所、銅匠、銀匠鋪、眼鏡店、雜貨店、鞋帽店、服裝店乃至青樓妓館等一應俱全,成為濟南開埠前最為繁盛的街市,引領濟南消費時尚,從而也構成一幅老濟南世俗風情畫卷。
　　街的南首有兩幢斜對著的高三層的西式樓房,路西那幢灰色的為山東教育圖書社,由山東著名教育家鞠思敏、王祝晨等人1913年發(fā)起創(chuàng)辦,30年代后由大布政司街(今省府前街)遷此重建,成為解放前舊城內(nèi)的新式的最高建筑。
　　路東方方正正的那棟紅磚樓則是20年代建立的廣利順雜貨店。系舊城內(nèi)最早采用機制紅磚的建筑,在老城內(nèi)一片黑瓦青磚的海洋里格外醒目。尤其采用新式的玻璃柜窗,方便了商品的陳列,成為濟南現(xiàn)代商店的雛型�！皬V利順”經(jīng)銷的品種有服裝、鞋帽、綢緞、絲繡、進口瓷器、玻璃器皿、上弦啟動的火車、輪船之類的兒童玩具等“洋廣雜貨”,成為當時老城內(nèi)最為時尚的賣場。
　　芙蓉街南口向北第一個向東去的岔路是一條與之同名的小巷――芙蓉巷,巷中段路北、平泉胡同東側是“大成永”鞋帽莊。這里生產(chǎn)的鞋子在城里很有名氣,當時有這樣的順口溜:“頭戴一品冠,衣穿大有緞,腳踏大成永”,不難看出這一品牌的地位�，F(xiàn)存的這座清末創(chuàng)建的三進四合院,系明清時期商業(yè)建筑盛行的“前店后坊”式,至今二進院門上還保留著如意紋樣和象征福祿的磚雕。房舍挑檐下還有獅子滾繡球等石雕、磚雕造型,象征財源滾滾。
　　“大成永”東鄰原有一座嬌小玲瓏的二層小樓,這便是濟南首家衛(wèi)生鑲牙館。創(chuàng)始人張巽辰,臨清人,早年留學日本,回國后在上海行醫(yī),后來濟南開診所。所以從這座建筑看得出有上海弄堂及小洋樓的某些特點,北側相連的又是典型的濟南四合院。這家“袖珍”式的齒科診所無疑在濟南醫(yī)藥衛(wèi)生史上占有重要地位。
　　鑲牙館對面偏東,原有一家剁斧石到頂?shù)亩�層樓�?形制歐化,體量雖不太大,像座別墅,但很是厚重,穩(wěn)穩(wěn)地立在那里。從墻上鑲嵌的“照相”二字和建筑年代刻記推斷,它便是建于1931年的蘭亭照相館,在當時城內(nèi)其規(guī)模列各照相館之首,從這個側面也反映出這條街巷所經(jīng)歷過的“摩登”時代。
　　舊時濟南有四大魯菜館,兩家在芙蓉街,一是燕喜堂,二是東魯飯莊。燕喜堂老號位于金菊巷東首,創(chuàng)建于1932年3月,時值南燕北歸時節(jié),便得了這個雅號。創(chuàng)辦人趙子俊,科班出身,對菜品質量和特色的要求很高,在烹飪技藝上追求典型的老濟南風味,時稱“歷下風味”,以清湯、奶湯等湯菜見長。
　　與燕喜堂幾乎同一時期創(chuàng)立于芙蓉街中段路東的是一家以經(jīng)營膠東菜和承辦大型喜壽宴席為主的東魯飯莊。前后共兩進四合院,院落很大,東西還有側院,可同時擺放100多桌酒席,其規(guī)模舊城內(nèi)獨此一家。據(jù)說當年韓復榘娶兒媳婦時,就曾在此大擺喜宴。
　　今金菊巷14號門樓,過去是書畫裝裱老字號英華齋。1913年英華齋創(chuàng)始人白少杰從北京榮寶齋學藝回來,先在龍神廟街開店,1920年遷此。在當時的老城內(nèi)很有名氣,工作人員有20余位。英華齋的絕活是古舊字畫的揭裱。
　　在傳統(tǒng)的老字號中,現(xiàn)在只有三山眼鏡店和玉謙旗袍店了。濟南最早銷售水晶眼鏡的店鋪始稱“一珊號”,后改成“三仙號”,傳到今天三山眼鏡店掌門人張廣海老漢手中,已經(jīng)歷了四代。而位于街巷深處的玉謙旗袍店則有著百余年的歷史。這家店鋪不大的裁縫鋪是清同治年間創(chuàng)立,今天的掌柜的于仁謙是第5代傳人。家里至今保留著祖上用過的烙鐵、粉線袋、漿刀子、鏝頭、鐵登以及美制的“勝家”牌老式縫紉機等老家什。
　　從芙蓉街向東穿過花墻子街和轆轤把子街,便至后宰門街。其中也有幾家老字號很值得翻翻家譜。濟南有道名菜“九轉大腸”,就誕生于這條街東首路南的“九華樓”飯莊�！熬湃A樓”面積不大,但建筑考究,南面各有一兩層樓圍成四合院。天井中有泉池,系過去店里養(yǎng)活魚所用。店主杜氏是清代濟南富商,特喜歡“九”字,所開九家商號都冠以“九”字�！熬呸D大腸”之名,即顯示了掌柜的“九”字癖,又說明這道菜的烹飪過程之復雜如煉道家九轉金丹。
　　與九華樓相比,街中段路南的“同元樓”飯莊名氣更大。雖以樓命名,卻是一座門樓內(nèi)分為兩個平行的兩進四合院,西側為店鋪、廚房、東側為住宅,各個院子相通。珍珠泉和珍池(當?shù)厝怂追Q鴨子灣)流出的清澈泉水成明渠,流經(jīng)院內(nèi)天井,店家用木箱放進池水中放養(yǎng)鯉魚供客人選點。飯莊的特色是蒲菜豬肉灌湯包、金絲卷、銀絲卷、素菜包等面食。
　　濟南人口重,滿城醬菜飄香。這條街上原有家有名的醬菜店遠興齋醬園,據(jù)說生意最火時,能裝五百多斤醬菜的大缸就有三百多個,占據(jù)了街東首向南至珍池的多處院落。這里不僅醬菜做得好,而且用玫瑰花釀制的“玫瑰池”燒酒也遠近聞名。
　　說起濟南的醬菜,不能不提西關江家池子巷的兩座醬園。巷口東側是“北厚記”醬園,巷子盡頭路西則是名氣更大的字號“醴泉居”醬園。北厚記是章丘人的杰作,始創(chuàng)于19世紀80年,其第三代店主石紹先曾在20年代擔任過濟南的商會會長,其地位和影響略見一斑。
　　醴泉對面巷子東側是著名的江家池,系七十二泉之一,屬五龍?zhí)度�群中第二大泉。因明代官至陜西按察副使的歷城人江浚祖居在此而得名。石砌泉池中放養(yǎng)著鯉魚。其中有少量紅鯉魚,人稱錦鯉。這些魚系吃齋念佛的人買來送此放養(yǎng)的,故該池又稱“放生池”。清道光年間,池北建飯店,初名“錦盛樓”。1941年店員們湊錢買下錦盛樓,擴建后又改“德盛樓”,最后改名匯泉樓飯莊。
　　
　　Most of old and famous shops exist in the Lotus Street which is of 4m in width and nearly 500m in length. There were over 140 shops in its heyday including tailor’s shop, Jewelry shop, dye house, library, photo studio, musical instrument shop, clinic, coppersmith, silversmith shop, optician’s, grocery store, shoe and cap shop, clothing store, and even brothel in Lotus Street together with the intersecting Lotus Lane, Jinju Lane and Pingquan Alley, making it the most prosperous market before the opening of Jinan as a port. It leads the consumers’ fashion in Jinan, thus constituting a picture of secular custom of Jinan.
　　In the south end of the street stand two three-storeyed western-style buildings facing to each other at an angle. The gray building to the west of the road is Shandong Education Bookstore, which was established in 1913 by famous educators such as Ju Simin and Wang Zhuchen etc.. After the 1930s, the Dabuzhengsi (Chief Secretary) Street (today’s Shengfu Qianjie) was moved here and reconstructed, becoming the most updated and highest building in the old city before liberation. In old days, it mainly engaged in selling books of the Zhonghua Book Company, as well as stationery and educational equipment, and was popular with readers.
　　The square building made of red bricks to the east of the road is Guanglishun Grocery Store established in 1920s. As the first one using red brick, the building becomes extraordinarily eye-catching among buildings with black roof-tiles. In particular, the glass and wood cabinet adopted was convenient for displaying goods and became the prototype of modern shops. The goods sold by “Guanglishun” were “foreign groceries” including clothes, shoes and hats, silk, silk embroideries, imported porcelain, glassware, clockwork trains and ships. Guanglishun thus became the most fashionable marketplace at that time.
　　Walking northward from the south end of the Lotus Street, and turning to right at the first sideway leading to the east, you will find the small alley called Lotus Lane, which adopts the same name as Lotus Street. At the north side of the middle section, and at the east side of Pingquan Alley is “Dachengyong” shoes and hats shop. The shoes produced here were very famous in the city, thus there was such a jingle as “wearing the hat of Yipinguan, clothing of Dayou Silk Shop, and shoes of Dachengyong”. It easily reveals the popularity of the brand. The existing courtyard built in the late Qing Dynasty (A.D.1644~1911) adopted the style of “shop in front and workshop at back” which was popular in commercial buildings in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Even now, the pattern design of Ruyi and tile carvings representing happiness and wealth are still preserved. Under the roof overhang of the house are carvings on stone and brick with the pattern of the “l(fā)ion playing with an embroidered ball” and other patterns representing big fortune.
　　 The delicate two-storeyed building to the east of “Dachengyong” Shop is the first dental practice in Jinan, which was founded by Zhang Xunchen, with Linqing as his native place. He studied in Japan in his early years, and then practiced medicine in Shanghai after returning to China, and later on he opened a clinic in Jinan. Therefore, we can find certain characteristics of Shanghai alleys and western-style buildings from the architecture, attached to what is a typical Jinan quadrangle courtyard. The “pocket-size” dental clinic undoubtedly played an important role in Jinan health and medical history.

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